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The purpose of this final project work is to examine the factors that influence the rational working methods in making double plain knitted bands, using both smooth and unsmooth (effect) yarn. The first part of this work formulates the theoretical background, which is used as the theoretical framework for the work. The theoretical background consists of the characteristics and assumptions of rational preparation methods. Furthermore, it also deals with those factors that have an influence on the planning and preparatory stages of machine knitting, the production methods, the critical points in the preparation of knitwear and, finally, the influencing factors on implementation and completion. Rationality in this work refers to a productive working method (easy, fast), the fact that a product has a good aesthetic quality and that the result is functional. The second part of this work is based on questionnaires given to teachers in the field of crafts and design. The second part functions as a pilot study and describes the current situation in the field. The third part empirically tests the knitting of the bands, on the basis of which conclusions about the rationality of the production methods are drawn. The study data consists of 12 samples, which are knitted using both smooth and unsmooth yarn. The samples were finished using 6 different completion and fastening methods. The working methods and tools are varied; linker, knitting machine, hand seaming, serger and lock-stitch sewing machine. The most common production methods in crafts, that is fully fashioned and cut stitch-shaped methods, were used in the study. The evaluation of knitwear samples was made on the basis of both labour efficiency and aesthetic impression. The research material consists of photographed samples from both front and side angles. The research results indicated that there is no difference between smooth and unsmooth yarn on the basis of amount labour required. However, the use of unsmooth yarn made the work quicker than the use of smooth yarn. Albeit, the use of unsmooth yarn brought with it some added difficulties. The working methods which didn’t cause a great deal of difficulties were the same for both yarns. Also the methods which caused the most difficulties were the same for both yarns but the order was different. From an aesthetic perspective, the use of unsmooth yarn brought about better results than the use of smooth yarn. The results also showed that, from a rational perspective, the use of unsmooth yarn was not as irrational as it was earlier believed. The four rational working methods are as follows; method based on short rowing and working with the knitting machine only, same method as earlier but attaching the band partially by hand, method with linker and method with knitting machine only. |
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